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Women are canoeing it for themselves...
By Sarah Tucker Fancy a weekend activity break, just a little off the beaten track? We sent Sarah Tucker to paddle her own canoe - through the Canadian wilderness. Wind chill factor of minus 10. Head winds vicious and relentless. Frozen fingers sticky with cold - clinging to the oars of a 50lb kayak on an unseasonally cold Thanksgiving weekend on a lake, in the middle of one of the oldest, most stunning and most challenging Provincial parks in Canada. Welcome to the wilderness experience. If Steve Redgrave could do it, then so could I. No, not win a gold in the next Olympics, but learn to paddle my own canoe - literally and metaphorically. Ideally in a location as evocative and challenging and hopefully as warm as Sydney - but closer to home, minus the crowds, media attention and formidable competition. Inspired by Redgrave's efforts, I wanted to learn to kayak, camping under the stars, with wild animals, bears, wolves, moose, the lot. I wanted to learn how to survive under wilderness conditions. There are hundreds of tour operators offering outward bound weekends in the wild - both for corporate team building sessions and for individuals in search of an adrenalin rush, but few offer the degree of tuition, variety and fun Call of the Wild includes in their itineraries. "You're a soft adventurer at the moment", Robin Banerjee, MD of Call of the Wild, said to me after I explained what I wanted from my weekend. "Soft adventurers are the sort of people who climb Kilimanjaro but expect someone else to carry their luggage for them. Well, I don't carry your luggage on the trips we organise. Other companies do that. You carry your own. And you carry your own canoe single handedly between lakes when you need to. You do your own cooking, pitch your own tent, light your own fire in all conditions - rain or shine. I'm here to give you the guidance and the confidence to enable you to do it for yourself. To survive and smile through it". Call of the Wild operates week long and weekend tours in some of the most spectacular national and provincial parks in Ontario. Don't be misled by the word 'park'. Parks in Canada are not of the neat rose bed, small lake and asphalt path variety. Canadian parkland is untamed wilderness - largely accessible only by foot, by canoe or on horseback. Some of these parks are populated by more grizzly, black and brown bear per square mile than anywhere else on the planet. I asked Robin why there are no roads built through some of these bear infested parks to ensure visitors could appreciate the wildlife in relative safety. He replied matter of factly the roads this would disrupt the environment and if visitors wanted to see the bears, and were accidently eaten, so be it. He assured me as long as visitors were well prepared and had a good guide with them, they would more or less be safe, and anyway, the bears are more scared of us than we are of them. Yeh, right. The company sends you a list of the clothes and accessories you should take for the weekend (incredibly no more than 15 items, and that includes sleeping bag), and more importantly, the things you should leave at home. I had my quota of clothes and toiletries, and was able to travel with only hand luggage on my flight. "We never recommend jeans", Robin explained. "Always bring a hat, light coloured, lots of socks which can also double as dirty knicker holders. No perfume or aftershave - no one cares what you smell like in the wild, and it also attracts the mosquitoes. Leave the rings and expensive jewellery at home. Your fingers will shrink in the cold, and they'll fall off you when you're paddling against the head winds. Do bring good walking shoes, sunglasses, a hat or bandanna, mosquito repellant and a really really good sleeping bag that can deal with sub zero temperatures just in case. And a good light rucksack to carry it all in. A mirror if you must. You have to carry the whole lot on your back - so think light'. Before I was allowed to set foot in my canoe Robin gave me a focused brief on do's and don'ts of wilderness and canoe ettiquette. I was told what the canoes were made of kevlar (same material as bullet proof vests). Why the oars were the shape they were and why they were made of that sort of wood. Robin showed me how to hold the paddle (push from the shoulder), how to turn and twist it, what to do in certain weather conditions (no, not panic), and how to steer the boat and optimise your energy at all times (keep the paddle as close to the water as possible). Despite the previous weekend of Indian summer - a respectable 15 degrees - my Thanksgiving weekend was chilly and wet and windy. But the Canadian Fall colours were at their height and they lifted my spirits as I battled against the cold and head winds. I paddled from the side of one lake to the other, taking a brief break before carrying my heavy kayak on my shoulders onto the next lake. I paddled across three lakes each day, for between four to six hours. I occasionally stopped rowing to watch the geese flying south, flocked in their arrows of hundreds - cackling nosily like Christmas party goers. Did the cold and wind dampen my enthusiasm? On the contrary, the conditions steeled my determination to succeed. Each night Robin showed me how to cherry pick camp sites protected from the elements. First chores were collecting and sawing wood from trees which had already been felled and tinder-dry. Robin showed me how to do this without getting blisters or cuts. Then it was pitching tents and exploring for the best kindling. Packing uneaten or food for the next night's camp into bags and hanging them from trees so that the bears couldn't get to it. 'Never leave food in your tent. The bears will smell it and try to get to it'. I ate every scrap I was given that weekend. I learnt to rock climb like a trooper, stretching my legs into positions I thought impossible. My reward on reaching the top of each cliff was incredible views of the surrounding parkland. Robin told me about the plants and birds (pointing out the bald eagles 'there are more bald eagles in Canada than there are in the US - something every Canadian will tell you, and no American will) and which berries could be eaten and which should be left for the animals. I watched moose wallowing by the lakeside and found bear tracks, if not the bears. I called for wolves into the early hours. They called back, but alas it turned out only to be another encampment a few miles away who were also calling for wolves! The real wolves must have wondered what the hell was going on that weekend! Each evening, we would tell ghost or long stories round the campfire. First night, Blair Witch Report-like, I got lost in the woods as I attempted to reach the designated make-shift toilet - a box with a hole in it, which was usually set up on a hill approached by a narrow path. Not the most wonderful of public conveniences, but during daylight hours - a seat with an unparalleled view of the Algonquin. If it wasn't for the bears, the Blair Witch, the call of the confused and silent wolves, I could have sat in my constipated state there for hours.... My last day of wilderness was spent in zero degree temperatures paddling hard back to base with a strong, unremitting head wind that dipped temperatures to minus 10c. As the wind slashed my face and my fingers froze to the oars I chanted 'Stephen Redgrave, Stephen Redgrave, Stephen Redgrave' and visualised the warm bed of the Westin Harbour Hotel I had stayed in two nights before and the warm bath I would spend hours soaking in at the Royal York hotel room that night. It helped. All weekend I hadn't fallen in. I was glowing with health, felt stronger and exhilerated by what I had learnt, seen and done. Strangely, I didn't look tired. Filthy yes, tired no. I stank of garlic (the food is fabulous but garlicy) and wood fire smoke had soaked into every fibre of my clothes. So, here are my expert tips on how to stay cool in the wild...
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Canoeing at
first light |
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![]() My fellow adventurers |
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![]() Tranquility - a shock for city-dwellers |
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![]() A male moose |
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![]() A misty morning on the lake |
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![]() Robin, our guide |
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![]() Our campsite |
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![]() Bears: much anticipated, but rarely seen. |
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![]() Watching moose on the lakeshore |
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![]() Chipmunks caused me the most grief |
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![]() Lakeside sunset |
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